Day 3 of the REI Adventure was my most anticipated hike in Zion National Park (NP), the West Rim trail. When we were in Zion NP a few years ago, we hiked to Observation Point via a now closed (due to rockslides) trail along the east rim. It was one of my favorite experiences of the trip after the Narrows because of both the challenge as well as the amazing views. My hope was that the West Rim trail would be similar.
Angel’s Landing is probably the most popular trail in Zion NP so much so that a lottery permit system was implemented to restrict the number of hikers traversing it. We didn’t attempt it during our previous trip because it’s extremely narrow, often crowded, and I don’t do well with crowds. We didn’t attempt it this trip either because we were with a group and there was no way we’d all win the permit lottery. Plus, as you’ll see in some of these photos, the views weren’t worth it.
The West Rim trail is the primary access point for Angel’s Landing but it continues past Angel’s Landing to the Kolob Canyons area of the park. It’s a very long trail, 15 miles one way.
Walter’s Wiggles
Our trail started off with a walk along the river and then we started the up. We knew that part of our hike was going to include Walter’s Wiggles but none of us other than the guides, knew exactly what that was. We asked a few times as we progressed if we’d reached the wiggles yet but were generally told “No” with a laugh followed by “you’ll know it when you see it”. They weren’t wrong!
Walter’s Wiggles are a series of 21 steep switchbacks taking hikers up 250′ over a pretty short distance. You’re walking along the trail, through Refridgerator Canyon, when you round a corner and all of a sudden BAM. Walter’s Wiggles are In. Your. Face.
The photo above does not do this justice. Take a look at the images found with a quick Google search. Impressive no? Random factoid: the Wiggles were the brainchild of Walter Ruesch and completed in the 1920s. The really crazy thing to me is that at the top of the wiggles, are freaking toilets. I’m so glad I’m not responsible for their maintenance because you know there’s no plumbing out here.
Base of Angel’s Landing
The toilets are at the base of the Angel’s Landing trail. Go to the left and visit the toilets. Go to the right and visit the angels. Go straight and continue along the West Rim Trail. Given the various options and the popularity of Angel’s Landing, this is a very happening place. It’s also where the Park Rangers will usually hang out to verify permits for Angel’s Landing. The weather was less than ideal this day so the Ranger was checking for permits at the base of the West Rim trail instead.
We hung out here for quite a while before continuing on to our lunch spot which offered us time to check out the amazing views. Don’t worry though. The views got worse before they got better.
In the Clouds
See what I mean about the views? This is the furthest our guide had ever previously traveled on this trail and was the usual turnaround point for the group. We took a vote and, due to the miserable weather and poor visibility, half of our group went back to the lodge and the other half continued along the trail. Chris chose to go back and I chose to continue on.
I’m biased but I think Chris chose poorly. It’s not because the next half mile or so we traveled was absolutely amazing. It was quite lovely but nothing mind-blowing. Chris chose poorly because once we turned around, the sky finally started to clear up and we had some amazing views of the valley.
Plus we got to see California Condors! They’re incredibly rare and only recently recovered from near extinction. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to get any photos of them but it was so freaking cool anyway.
The clear valley views. The condor spotting. This is when the trip finally seemed worth it to me. Not that it had been bad mind you. It just wasn’t quite as amazing as our previous REI trip nor as good as our previous solo trip to Zion NP.
GORGEOUS!