How Does One Hike with a Llama? AKA Cliffside Hiking in Mount Baker’s Shadow

More than a year ago Devin posted about our failure to get to a trailhead because our car couldn’t traverse the road. I encountered another one of those failures that I chose not to write about three months ago. We downsized to one vehicle when we moved to Washington which, combined with our desire to make it to trailheads and our wanderlust nature when traveling, has resulted in us getting a car that is more aligned with this lifestyle. Yes, we traded in the Tesla for a Rav 4.

Today’s trail is one that requires one of these vehicles. Not four-wheel drive or raw power, just something that has the ground clearance and can handle a rough gravel road. Our trail of choice today was Park Butte to Railroad Grade in the North Cascades at the base of Mount Baker and getting there requires getting your vehicle up (and eventually down) an eight-mile pothole-filled, gravel road. Devin drove us out there and out of an abundance of caution, a parlance of our times, took the eight miles very slow and carefully.

Devin here: let's call a spade a spade.  I drove those 8 miles like the chicken I am.  Turns out I hate pothole filled roads with steep drop offs.  Who knew?!

Chris offered many times to take over driving to the trailhead and I told him no because he'd go too fast.  Spoiler: He did.  He drove on the return trip and did the normal to everyone else speed and I was rather white knuckled the entire time.  That said, I only asked him to get away from the cliff edge once so I more or less concealed my panic...

The trailhead has vault toilets and an informational display that describes the trails and the permitted beings on the trail. Apparently, llamas are a common enough trail animal in this region to warrant mention on these descriptions. A quick Google search can even hook you up with your own llama adventure!

Super cool Llamas upper case both L’s

Today’s weather was overcast with a combination of clouds and smoke from wildfires on the other side of the cascades. Undeterred we headed out on the trail. This trail is very well maintained where the different associations and park services have clearly made a number of improvements including fighting erosion.

There is a section within the first mile that requires you to cross a glacial runoff stream that seemed a little dicey. Hiking poles and sure footing helped but as always we were one misstep from taking a cold bath.

This trail is a very popular backpacking overnight trip. Along these trails are backcountry campsites that are about three miles in on the top of a small ridge. There are no vault toilets or easy access to water so keep that in mind if you want to do that. We encountered several backpackers who had spent the night and were making their way back to their cars in the parking lot.

We passed a few small campsites with meadow views and after a bit, you can make out Mount Baker (I’m sure on a clear day this is an amazing sight). At that point, there are a number of campsites with views of Mount Baker. Imagine the struggle of having to wake up with that view huh?

Once you spy Mount Baker you start to realize the trail goes along this ridge. What you don’t see, until you make it onto the ridge, is the sheer drop on the other side. Devin, who is not afraid of heights, quickly embraced her fear of falling and after hiking on the ridge for a bit we decided it wasn’t worth it and turned around.

Devin here: Yes, I called it quits first.  No, I don't know who I am any more.  I used to be the fearless one in this relationship but he didn't mention the wind.  The super strong wind that was blowing so much dust along this ridge which caused my very active imagination to picture a strong gust causing one of us to stumble right off this narrow trail.  I'm too young to be dead or a widow thank you very much!

Perhaps, if the weather had been clearer we would have ignored our fears and admired the Easton Glacier and been awed by Mount Baker’s sheer size but not today. The trail runs the entire stretch of the ridge and where erosion has caused the trail to vanish, hikers have created alternative paths.

The way back down was nice and we saw far fewer people. We even took some time to play in the water!

Chris
Chris

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